Concurrent Picnics and Austen Fight Club!

The ORS Annual Picnic at Pittock was so fun this year!

The fabulous Portland Landmark overlooks the valley and the city of portland. This french-chateau style building was built a hundred years later than our desired period, but nevertheless, it's a lovely site for our picnic that feels very appropriate.

ORS Founder Stephanie in her troublesome gown and a borrowed hat (which she almost stole because she loved it so much).

A Seurat painting in the making?

Ensconced in the shade of the European Beech, we feast.

And some more romantic things happen as well. ;). The always beautiful and elegant Lady of Portland House offers her dashing husband a sumptuous stemmed cherry. (photos stolen from Aaron Marks, Stephanie Robertson and Charlotte Cunningham's facebook albums!)

Some not-so period texting.

Chef Steph R's beautiful array of delicious treats.

Charlotte, Nora and Stephanie R.

Le Bon Ton create a beautiful tableau.

Such a lovely day. :::sigh:::

Links to photo albums:
Stephanie R's Album
Aaron Marks' Album
Charlotte Cunningham's Album

And just for some more fun....

Whenever I stumble on a relevant link or movie that I know will make a Janeite or Regency fan laugh or smile, I am compelled to post it. So I end this post with this little thing that's gone viral...

ORS Central Valley also hosted a picnic on Sunday. Details will be posted on the ORS Central blog soon!

Let's talk habits

Two of our most beloved ORS members are organizing a wonderful new event. A Fox Hunt!

Naturally, as the ad says, we will be hunting faux-foxes, sans horses and baying hounds—but we WILL be hopefully all trussed up in our finest riding habits as we run about seeking out those sly little fellows hiding in the shrubbery. So I thought a post on the Regency Riding Habit to be much called-for.

Personally, being an avid Horsewoman since I was four, this project has caught my interest. I’ve ridden sidesaddle in the past, however my habit was more Victorian in style than Regency. I have been simply DYING to make a regency riding habit, despite my horse not quite being trained enough to wear a side-saddle… however, this isn’t going to stop me from moving forward on this project, and I have been looking at a number of fashion plates to get myself motivated. There are TONS of blogs out there featuring a variety of habits in a compendium of colours… so I’ll let you do your own picture searches. Right now, I’ m past pictures and am now well into the patterns and research. HOWEVER, as the mainstay of regency research given to us by the irascible Cathy, who taught me SO much with her invaluable website, I offer you this single link. (Pay some attention to the hats too!)

Inspiration:

Here is a link to an extant garment, shared by Dawn Luckham, costumer extraordinaire!

Dawn wrote: "Extant habit in linen or cotton (Holland is a fine quality linen). Note the light colour!"

Meg Andrews' Hot Climate Riding habit.
Click here for a detail

Kyoto Costume Institute's Extant Habit
Estimated 1810.(detail here)

This habit has a longer waist than the others depicted here today, but it is a perfectly lovely example of a period riding habit.  The buttons are adorable.  Here is a modern interpretation of this garment:

Patterns of habits:

There are very few patterns out there to work with… here’s what I found; The Rocking Horse Farms pattern (scroll down the page to find the pattern) also comes with a shirt. I have no reviews of it, but as RHF patterns go, they are usually decently drafted and easy to follow.



Reconstructing History’s Habit (ostensibly based on the pattern by Janet Arnold)… I’ve heard mixed reviews of RH patterns… they are certainly not a beginner’s pattern.

Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion 1 book contains the a nice habit, in addition to a number of other amazing Regency patterns, from bib-front gowns to half-robes and a robe. Definitely worth the price of the book… trust me.

Habit projects:

Now, I’ve been following Katherine; a young lady who is almost a legend in the costuming world around here, for quite a while. She is amazing. Her website is addictive, so before you click through, finish up reading this post, because you’ll forget all about it once you start browsing her photo-essays of her various costume projects. Katherine tackled a number of Regency pieces. One of these includes her Regency riding habit. Her project photos are enlightening—and explain a lot about construction.

What Katherine shows us is that she can take a pattern (Janet Arnold’s) and piece it out to customize the design. If you look at her construction page, you can get an idea how she constructed her pieces. Her inventiveness for the habit shirt is also wonderful:

That girl is a wonder; and she hand-stitches EVERYTHING. ::blargh::

I think the primary difference between a habit and a spencer is that you are supposed to wear the spencer over your clothing. A riding habit is your gown in essence. Many women used the riding habit as traveling clothing as well. The habit would be made of a lighter material than the spencer. A linen, or very light wool, or heavier cotton, perhaps. A nice jewel or earth-tone was appropriate.

The riding habit comes in two primary pieces (three if you count the shirt). The first piece is pretty much a short spencer—add a nice peplum and you’re good to go. It doesn’t take too much to modify your collar and front to your preference. Scanning the variety of fashion plates out there can inspire your design. Riding habits often had a distinctive military look, or sometimes, they looked like tiny versions of the gentlemen’s frock coat.

I look at these patterns and I see a lot of similarities from a riding habit and the Ravenrook/Mode Bagatelle Spencer pattern for the spencer (see views G for the peplum and H for the collar and the rest)

You can easily take this pattern and turn it into a viable riding habit using lighter fabrics, and taking in the seam allowance a tiny bit, so that it is closer-fitted.

Taking that pattern for the spencer, you can create something quite authentic looking; and using the skirts from View C, you can create the trained skirts (or untrained if you don’t want a train) that you need for your habit. Using the bodiced petticoat bodice (view A), you can use the back and side pieces to create the little bodice that holds the skirt up; trimming the front part off just shy of under the arms, and making sure to cut your back on a fold so it's one contiguous piece. (See Katherine’s habit skirt on her page linked above for a better idea, or my drawing above as well).

Here is a reproduction garment using a book pattern.

If you own the Sense and Sensibility Pattern for a spencer, and you are inventive, you can surely use that pattern to construct your habit jacket with it. You’d have to probably work in the peplum yourself, but it will provide a good framework to begin.

Sense & Sensibility's Chemisette pattern (as well as LMB's chemisette in their pattern package) would work extremely well for a riding shirt (although they both lack sleeves). But like Katherine, you can be inventive; because the white ruffled cuff inside your jacket sleeves would be very pretty. Depending on your collar, you will want to fill in your neckline, and even apply a small cravat or some ruffles to the front.

Finally, the Burnley and Trowbridge pattern for a spencer is very habit-like and it has a darling peplum.

I am going to attempt to hold a workshop before September to help people construct these delightful garments, but in the meantime, let these images be your inspiration to create a riding habit you can feel elegant in. :)

What to wear underneath

There is also the question of what would be the appropriate underthings for a habit.  It depends on whether or not you are actually going to ride a horse sidesaddle or if you are doing it for the simple sake of costuming.  In the case of costuming, the standard undergarments will suffice; although there are some little period breeches (featured on Koshka the Cat's habit post) that are modeled after men's breeches that women were known to wear. But a pair of pantaloons or pantalettes will do if you aren't comfortable in just a shift and petticoat.  And stockings of course.

For the actual rider, I do not recommend you wear a petticoat unless you have made it with lots of volume, you need a lot of freedom of movement under those skirts. A shift and your corset over a pair of riding leggings or jodhpurs would be your best bet, although I have seen women wearing standard riding breeches underneath their habit skirts (sometimes full seat breeches for stickability) with only one tall boot on their left leg and a short boot on the right, which is a standard sidesaddle practice.

Regency Ladies' Riding Boots

Depending on your commitment to authenticity, your selection of appropriate boots is fairly broad.  If you can find a pair of all-leather lace-up standard paddock boots, you're in luck. Ariat makes nice paddock boots, and they're specifically designed for riding. I'd recommend these for people who actually intend on riding in their Regency habits.  ((See my post on Regency Sidesaddle Riding)) These boots look the part, and serve a practical purpose. Here is a sample of actual riding paddock boots: Click Here. 

If you're not too concerned with having actual riding boots, but you want something that is authentic with your habit and also with other Regency day-wear, you should get these: Click Here.

If you're looking for something that looks the part, but doesn't cost too much, and doesn't really need to be too practical, a pair of good lace-up Jazz boots look the part. Sample Here: Click Here. More samples: Click Here. They range at about $30 - $40

_____________________________________________________________________ 

Update! Look at this reproduction piece I stumbled on via another period blog; it includes photos of a garment for sale--here is the link for the sale page, but since sales are temporary by nature, I wasn't confident that this link would remain active forever, so I sniped the pics from the site and made a little collage so that if the link breaks, you can still see this beautiful garment.

Click image to enlarge.

The sale caption reads: c. 1999 repro 1810 Deep Navy Cashmere Wool Felt Empire Trained Equestrian Riding Gown and Jacket (Riding Habit) from Jane Austen's Mansfield Park 1999 film version! COA! Every once in a while I'm able to get my hands on some fabulous period reproduction pieces that are beautiful enough to compare to the original period gowns. This one captivates your heart! You will never find another quite so realistic. The jumper gown can be worn buttoned up at the sides as you see, or just unbutton to wear straight. The jacket has violet-blue velvet collar, cuffs and buttons. The wool feels like cashmere. Wonderful! Near mint condition. Purchased directly from the production company and comes with COA that calls it "Andrea's Vest and Jumper". I'm not sure who Andrea was in the flick, but in this instance it's all about the costume itself, not the actress.

The 2010 Regency Bonnet Workshop

The ORS bonnet workshops are a popular and fun event. It's a casual, busy-hands event where many of us sit around for six hours just stitching, prattling away, laughing and drinking tea. Most people (those who work while talking, as opposed to talk while occasionally stitching) leave the workshop with a near-completed bonnet.

I offer instructions using my bonnet pattern for the stovepipe bonnet (you can get your own copy here), and also I provide instruction and assistance with the simple Regency soft-poke bonnet. This year, I've secured a lovely classroom upstairs at the Sandy Historical Museum. It's a nice space with a little kitchenette and a museum downstairs so there is a nice distraction when you're up and about stretching your legs.

For those of you who cannot attend the ORS bonnet workshops, here is the next best thing (and they're not so great, my apologies for quality... ::teehee::).

I have movie-tutorials on how to make a soft-poke bonnet, and how to assemble my pattern. I also noticed that my materials-list URL is outdated, so I have provided links to the updated materials lists below. I hope this helps you with your Bonnet project. Maybe someday you can join us at our yearly workshop.

The Tutorial for a Soft-Poke Bonnet:

The Tutorials (Parts 1 and 2) for assembling my pattern for the Stovepipe Bonnet:

Materials list for the Stovepipe Bonnet.
Materials list for the Soft Poke Bonnet.


Some inspiration:

Made for myself, and then given to a dear friend who adored it.
It is the high-angle short bonnet from my pattern.

An Etsy Commission.

This is my friend and coworker Sherry; I made this bonnet for her to wear
while she offers free tours of Pittock Mansion.

This bonnet was made by the ORS member Katie (she's modeling it).
This was during last year's February Bonnet Workshop.

ORS Member Laura also made this during the same workshop.
Both she and Katie chose the low-angled long stovepipe bonnet from my pattern.

(Click here for a link to the whole set of photos I've collected of commissioned or personal bonnets)

Caps and Coifs

Regency caps were often worn underneath bonnets.

Here is a link to a variety of Regency Cap patterns as well as elaborate coifs.
http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/caps.html

Sweets to the Sweet, a Regency Valentine Tea

Many thanks to our hosts, Connie & Mike Jarrett for opening their gorgeous home to our members and guests, this past Sunday. Twenty three gentlemen and ladies were in attendance at the historic Ferdinand McCown house in Oregon City, for the ORS Regency Valentines Tea.

Decorated with handmade paper cameos, the chandeliers illuminated new friends and old, as they gathered 'round to sample the savories treats provided therein. Oh my, a scrumptious menu of scotch eggs, mini mince-meat pies, shrimp roll-ups, scones, acres of brownies-including allergen free options- were laid out on the antique dining room table and carved sideboard. Tea and coffee were on hand in the kitchen, where many kettles of water were boiled by our kitchen pixies.

However, despite the dramatic posing, cooking on such an adorable period stove was really no chore! The afternoon's entertainment was provided by the passionate and knowledgable Professor D.R. Schreiber, whose slight of hand and conjuring illusions delighted the entire assembly. A superb presentation, which was full of fun and interesting history of "Conjuring" during the Regency period. During the show's intermission, Lady Lauren once again thrilled us with her divine voice. A rendition of Handel's "Silent Worship", she might truly have charmed birds from the trees, with her own superior trills.

After the show's conclusion, the professor was on hand to further discuss the topics of conjuring, and indulge in a cup or two of tea. The whist tables were brought out, and a second trip to the groaning sideboard was in order. Perhaps a third (or fourth) cup of the Chocolate Mint tea, if you please? And so, the remainder of the time was passed in good conversation and excellent company. As a further note, I'd like to also thank the several members whom stood on ladders, baked amazing yumminess, and/or washed dishes.

The Lady of Portland House (Lauren) and Lissa

The Lord and Lady of Portland House (Aaron and Lauren)

The Amazing Professor D.R. Schreiber and The Lady of Portland House

A lovely game of Whist

Connie and Mike, our gracious hosts

Christian and Tara preparing tea in the kitchen.

Yes, we take this all quite seriously!

The ORS has been growing like gangbusters lately. New chapters, new members, and new leaders. Events are culminating at a record pace; our events page will be packed and I’ve instituted a new ‘colour code’ system to help browsers quickly identify events being held by certain chapters.

Red: Portland and NW ~ Green: Eugene, Central Valley ~ Blue: Bed/Redmond ~ Yellow: Puget Sound. Right now, I have pretty much an entire year of events ready to go up just for ORS Northwest alone—not excluding the annual bonnet workshop and the picnic at Pittock Mansion. There will also be a brand new series of garden tours for the Portland group, which will touch on a number of the lovely gardens and arboretums.

ORS Puget Sound is planning its very first picnic, and ORS Cascades is going to put together a costume workshop. ORS Eugene has no less than two balls planned already for this year, it’s incredible Spring Debut ball in April and a wonderful ball called the ‘ORS Zombie Ball’ which is an October 30th party in the spirit of the ‘Pride and Prejudice and Zombies’ and ‘Sense and Sensibility and Sea-Monsters’.

So everyone’s busy! All ORS members are always welcome at all ORS events, there are no chapter to chapter restrictions… and please, always remember, except for the occasional special event, one of ORS’s policies is ‘Costumes are Recommended but Not Required!’—don’t let a lack of costume stop you from joining us at any of our events. We are an easy going, non-costume-Nazi group. We are all about having a good time and being as inclusive as possible. All of our events are open to non-members, and please, don’t ever hesitate to contact us through the main Oregon Regency Society website if you have any questions or concerns.

There are lots of costume ideas and resources on our special page, and you can get an at-a-glance summary of chapter events through the ORS main website. For the chapters, you can find links to each chapter in the margin of this blog page, or on the main index page of the ORS website.

The Feast of the Twelfth Night, McLean House, West Linn 1-9-10

Starting from left corner going clockwise; Stacy,
Bill Armstrong (ORS Cascades East Leader), Aaron Marks and Heidi at whist.

Lady Lauren (the Lady of Portland House) compliments us with a song.
You may view more of her songs and more pictures at her blog.

We partake of a tremendous meal cooked by Chef de Cuisine Lady Stephanie Robertson.
Three courses of multiple dishes (a detailed menu will be posted for all to see very soon).

Some dancing at the venue.

Some dancing at Lady Connie's Beautiful Home afterwards. :)

The Menu and full collection of movies and photos are available here: http://www.oregonregencysociety.com/pastevents/feast/Feast.htm

Details and updates :0)

Dinner, Dancing and Diversions.
Live music.
Raffle for Costume Items, Patterns and Photograph Portraits

Commercial Donors:

~ Sense & Sensibility Patterns ~

* 1 Elegant Lady's Closet Pattern

* 1 Regency Underthings Pattern

~ The Mantua Maker ~

* 1 1800 - 1820 Regency Corset

* 1 1800 - 1830 Pantalettes

* 1 1800 - 1820 Open Robe

* 1 1805 - 1812 Regency Frock

~ The Thread-Bare Stitchery ~

* A Regency Reticule

~ A. Lindahl Creations ~ Creative Children's Photography ~

* 6 $50 gift certificates towards prints with appointment.

call 503.622.0266 for details

The Sunnyside Grange
(Take Sunnyside Rd Exit Off 1-205, Go East to Corner of SE 132nd & Sunnyside Rd)

Chef: Stephanie Robertson

Pot Roast
Garlic Mashed Potatoes
Roasted Winter Veggies
Field Greens with hazelnuts, pears, and feta with a vinaigrette
Rosemary and Caramelized Onion Focaccia
Fresh Fruit
Creme Brulee

Dance Caller: Nan Evans

Grand March (begin at 7:30)
I Care Not for These Ladies
Auretti's Dutch Skipper
Alice
Knole Park
Leah’s Waltz
Corelli’s Maggot
Well Hall
(Intermission 9:00)
Duke of Kent’s Waltz
Shandy Hall
The Hop Ground
Heidenroslein
The Mulberry Garden
Waterfall Waltz


George Penk - violin
Fred Nussbaum - cello & mandolin
Lisa Scott - piano

Local Rental Costume Sources

~ A Masquerade Costumes
(Bellevue,WA)
10% discount to ORS ballgoers.
Just mention it at the desk.

~ The Costume Loft
Albany

~Costume Avenue Stage West
(Portland/Beaverton/Sherwood)

Tips and Tutorials:
Turning Modern Clothes into Regency Costume

Retrofitting a modern dress:
~Easy retrofit
~Intermediate retrofit
~Advanced retrofit

~Retrofit a tailcoat and create a man's costume with modern items

Guide To Proper Regency Event Costuming

~Dressing a Man for a Regency Ball
~Dressing a Woman for a Regency Ball
~Tying a man's Cravat/Neckcloth

More Ideas Here

www.kristenflemington.com

Kristen Flemington was born in Kansas City, Missouri and raised in Michigan City, Indiana. She received her BFA in photography from Columbia College Chicago. She is interested in forms of drawing, painting, and now silhouetting as a
pre-photographic form of documentation. She is currently sharpening her silhouetting scissors to perfection.

Other News:

The ORS is celebrating the creation of a new chapter in the Redmond/Bend area.

We are so happy about this development! And on top of that we've sold out the Feast of the Twelfth Night event! Yay!

SOLD OUT!